Ultrasonic Cleaning Machine - Marklin-Users.Net

   
Joined: 02/10/(UTC)
Posts: 855
Location: West Texas
Hello Ricardo, hope all is well.

This is one machine which really works on cleaning, frames, wheel trucks, axles, wheel sets, etc. it cleans better than any hand cleaning could because it cleans everywhere, no spot is missed. When I drop in a brush contact, it cleans it to like new. Copper wheel contacts actually look shiny and clean. I don’t use it for motors, I still clean these by hand. I would not put in a body shell either.

When I was considering buying one I asked on this forum too. It can get very technical and I am certain this is what you discovered also. They can be very expensive, large and have a multitude of features. Several years ago, I purchased a cheaper, orient made unit which is smaller but not the smallest because I wanted to be sure the parts would fit it in. It has a stainless tub with a plastic cage insert, to catch the parts. I found our parts were so small, they would slip thru the cage, so I put a glass into the cage. I add all the parts together and clean them all at one time. I add distilled water to the tank, then more to the glass and a few shots of the cleaner. I add the parts into the glass. I found it helpful to use a tweezer with a magnetic end to retrieve the parts from the glass. This retrieval process can increase the potential to drop or lose a part, so be careful.

I suppose this multiple setup might take a bit longer for it to work, but with these small parts, cleaning is not a long drawn out process. I add a light spray cleaning liquid like Simply Green or something similar. They do provide a sample of their cleaning liquid and when comparing the results against the Simply Green, I could not see a difference. Simply green is not being used full strength here. You probably don’t want a heavy corrosive cleaner, just a light cleaner. Let the machine do the work. I always fresh cleaning liquids each time, dumping out the tub after I am finished. I have noticed, some parts like the frame or lower gear cover, lose some of their burnish color if left in the cleaner to long and be certain to put a small bit of oil into the screw holes to avoid rust in these areas. I don’t leave these parts in the cleaner very long, perhaps one cycle only for this reason.

My cleaner is a basic one and cleans in a countdown cycle which are nine minutes each. If the part is not clean, I have to repeat the cycle several times. I have never had it clean enough in one cycle, it always takes more. If you think it is important to have longer cleaning cycles, you could look for a machine with this feature. Perhaps shorter cleaning cycles might be possible if the intensity could be adjusted. Perhaps a unit with this feature is available. I don’t mind how long it takes because I can be busy with another part like the motor. It might take 15 minutes or more to get the parts clean enough but I may be a bit over fussy. Anyway this will vary depending on the machine you buy.

When the parts has been cleaned, I usually drop them in isopropyl alcohol (99%) for a moment to clean the liquid off and then use compressed air to dry it. Never just leave the cleaning liquid on the part or let the part sit in the alcohol for extended periods as it might affect the finish.

I decided on an entry level machine which cost $50 or less just to decide for myself if they work. I quick discovered they in fact do. It is much easier to clean a locomotive with it. I clean wheelsets from the wagons and they look nearly new when finished. Now I drop in an entire truck assembly from a loco and don’t even disassemble it. Just be certain to douse it in the alcohol bath and blow it dry with your compressed air. It cleans up this way, no problem. You can even clean jewelry when you want to or other family items.

Hope this helps you decide. You can choose your cost ceiling, but even the cheap ones work, and keep working for more than several years. Perhaps when this one wears out, I could get a bit more expensive one, but don’t see a reason to go overboard. You might consider a similar approach.

Take good care.

Dwight

Well, Lucas E was correct. I measured the current into the unit. On heat it draws .44 A, so about 53 watts. On ultrasonic clean it draws .53 A, so about 64 watts. It was advertised as 100 W heat and 120 W clean. But still, it works OK. Here is a link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/

The 2 units I bought from eBay were with the bright blue face that said digital ultrasonic cleaner. The one I ordered from Amazon showed a picture of the darker blue face and TBond logo, however when it arrived it was the same blue face as the eBay units and had no TBond logo. But as I mentioned previously the curcuit board was located in a slightly different location and the basket was different. I think the only way to tell what you're getting is measuring the current. It makes me pretty angry when sellers list specs that are copied from another vender yet their products don't even begin to meet them. I've been sending items back regularly when I run across them.

How long these will last is anyones guess, but the least you can do is make sure you're getting what they advertised.

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I've been looking @ ultrasonic cleaners trying to decide if any of the Chinese ones are worth it. I'd like a 10L one. Would you mind sharing the Amazon info for the one you got?

If you buy one, check the current draw and see if I just got lucky, or if the SHZOND are better units. This is the 3.6 gallon (13.6L) Ultrasonic Cleaner I use:


I use it for antique clock, movements, jewelry, and other stuff. I use commercial solutions based on the objects to be cleaned. Some have ammonia, some are water based, and some mineral based. Some people use their own recipes for the solution.

I do not fill the entire cleaner with the cleaning solution. I put the object in some smaller plastic or glass vessel filled with cleaner, then float or immerse it in the water filled cleaner tank. Keeps the tank nice and clean and doesn't waste expensive ultrasonic solutions. I’ve got the 10L Seeutek from Amazon and the heater works great. It will heat cold solution up to 130 degrees fairly quickly. I’ve only used it to clean carburetors with SharperTek SC20 so far, but I love it.

Thanks for the tip about putting smaller objects in a separate container. I haven’t thought of that. Will try the wife’s jewelry next, and not use all of my jewelry cleaner to mix 10 liters of solution. Resurrecting this thread for new questions... Have any of you researched the importance of the specific frequencies of these cleaners?

I'm shopping for something in the 22-30L range. Most of the import/Vevor type units list a single frequency of 40KHZ in their product specs. But a few are labeled "dual frequency" with 28/40KHZ in the specs...

Anyone tried both? Assuming tank size and transducer wattage is the same, what role does frequency play in the cleaning action? Do certain materials respond better to the lower freq?