Jun. 30, 2025
Q. What type of clamp should I use for my application?
A. Some clamps are best suited for specific applications, while others can be used for a wide range of purposes. When choosing a clamp, you should consider the type of part being clamped, the size of the part to be clamped, how much holding power is needed, and the cost of the clamps.
Q. How do I know what clamp size I need?
A. Our clamps are listed by either a clamping range or their nominal size. Clamps listed by nominal size are intended for use on that size hose or pipe. Clamps with a nominal size will match a product with the same nominal size. When clamping a hose or induction pipe, you may use a clamp with a clamping range. To determine which size clamp you need, assemble your parts as close to how they will be fitted in the vehicle. Then, measure the outer diameter (OD) of all pieces. If you cannot assemble the parts, you can measure the OD of the hose or pipe and add the thickness of any external couplers. For applications where the clamped hose or pipe slips over a barb, the OD is the only measurement you need to know. You should find a clamp whose clamping range covers this size. Ideally, you should choose a clamp where the size you need falls somewhere in the middle of the clamping range, as a clamp’s holding force is lower closer to its minimum or maximum diameter.
Q. What is the difference between a worm gear clamp and t-bolt clamp?
A. Worm gear clamps are for coolant hoses, low-pressure soft lines, catch cans, and stock induction piping. They are inexpensive, versatile, and available in a wide range of sizes. T-bolt clamps can be used for the same applications but are especially well suited for applications where higher clamping force is needed. This includes aftermarket forced induction couplers where higher boost pressures will be seen.
YOUDE contains other products and information you need, so please check it out.
Q. When do I need a constant tension worm gear/T-bolt clamp?
A. Constant tension T-bolt and constant tension worm gear clamps are available for the same applications as their standard counterparts but have the added ability to provide constant clamping force over a wide range of temperature and pressure. The spring on constant tension clamps allow the part being held to expand and contract with temperature changes. Constant tension clamps are especially useful in heavily modified applications that generate a lot of heat or when standard clamps have failed.
Q. What are the benefits of ear clamps and spring clamps?
A. Ear clamps are best suited for vacuum hoses, catch can hoses, or other low-pressure applications where a permanent clamp is required. Manufacturers use this type when a part does not need regular service but needs to be very secure. Spring clamps are the easiest clamp to remove and install with a simple pair of pliers or your fingers. They are useful for vacuum hoses and low-pressure soft hoses that will be installed/removed often and where a large amount of clamping force is not needed.
Q. Where should the clamp be placed on my hose/pipe/coupler?
A. For hoses that slip over a barb, the clamp should be placed behind the largest with some space between the edge of the clamp and the barb so that the hose is not cut by the barb. For clamps on couplers, you should place the clamp ¼” from the end of the coupler and behind the bead-roll of the pipe being clamped. If no bead roll is present, place the clamp ¼” from the end of the coupler.
For more information, please visit Constant Tension Hose Clamps.
Never had any issues with constant tension clamps such as these:
I have had issues with worm clamps, especially with smaller hoses and plastic fittings.
Using the original spec? It depends. Some are quite decent, some (cheap ones) are not. Some (the wire type that cut into the hose) are a positive menace.
The constant tension types seem to be o.k. but they are made of spring steel and can corrode.
Personally, if in doubt I always replace hose clips with genuine “Jubilee” clips. They were the original makers, and still make the best I reckon. There are a variety of styles (including heavy duty) and materials (including stainless) available. I am in the U.K. where they’re made though, but suspect they’re available in the U.S.
Terry’s or Norma seem to be almost as good, but don’t offer the variety.
I keep about 10 different sizes in zinc plated, plus the sizes for British Gas hose in stainless, which I often need. Cost isn’t great but the convenience of having them is fantastic!
Jubilee also offer some stuff called “Multiband” which is basically a roll of the clip material that you can cut to any length and use with a separate clamp. This is great for getting you out of trouble and I have a small roll of it in my road box!
Never had any issues with constant tension clamps such as these:
I have had issues with worm clamps, especially with smaller hoses and plastic fittings.
Personally, if in doubt I always replace hose clips with genuine “Jubilee” clips. They were the original makers, and still make the best I reckon. There are a variety of styles (including heavy duty) and materials (including stainless) available. I am in the U.K. where they’re made though, but suspect they’re available in the U.S.Jubilee is used as a generic term for "worm gear clamp" through out the U.K (and countries that were formerly part of the U.K.) Like Kleenex instead of facial tissue.
You can also,get a tool that uses safety wire to make a clamp. They are nice but don't use them in a place that you may need to remove/replace often
I buy my ABA's from Ultimate Garage.
One thing that's clever about the larger diameter clamps is that they're designed with a solid band. The worm drive can never cut into the hose. BMW Airheads use this type of clamp on the intake system for the carbs. If interested take a look at the ABA originals on this page.
Never had any issues with constant tension clamps such as these:
I have had issues with worm clamps, especially with smaller hoses and plastic fittings.
I like these as well BUT how the hell do you get them to "lock". EVERY time I try and open them so that the little tab goes in the slot I can never get them to stay open, and then they slam shut and my finger is always near and gets wacked.
Or I try and open them and the little tab doesn't go in the slot either because it's too high or too low... There has to be a way of easily opening and keeping them in the open position? Unless I'm overlooking something super simple.
Thanks,
-Nigel
I would love to use oetiker clamps everywhere because they look so clean and do the best job... But they are so sensitive to the size and I've never managed to find a good stock of them at an affordable price point. I'm sure they're great in a factory where they know exactly what they'll need and where but in the real world, good luck finding them in the sizes you need which kind of sucks if you ever need to replace them which is pretty much every time.
If I could just buy like a big case of like 100 every size up to a steering rack boot size for like $10, I'd be all over them. More likely I end up having to order the specific one from the manufacturer for $10 for that single clamp.
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