May. 26, 2025
Hardware
The materials from which bits are manufactured and the finishes applied to them play a significant role in the life and performance of the bit. Common materials and finishes include:
For most drill bit types, the angle of the point helps determine what type of material the bit can drill. Flatter points, such as those with 135-degree angles, are suited for drilling into harder material. They may require a pilot hole to keep the bit from wandering. Bits with steeper points, such as those with 118-degree angles, are suited for softer material. They stay on center better and produce cleaner entry and exit holes. Bits with split-point tips improve drilling accuracy by keeping the bit from wandering when you begin to drill.
Bit size reflects the diameter of the body. Some projects call for specific drill bit sizes, but a bit set that includes sizes from 1/16 inch to 1/4 inch will work for many jobs around the home and workshop. You can add larger bits — 5/16-inch, 3/8-inch, 7/16-inch and 1/2-inch bits — if you need them.
The chuck on a hand drill or drill press secures a drill bit to the tool along the bit's shank. A smaller drill for work around the house typically has a 3/8-inch chuck. More powerful drills for heavier applications have a larger, 1/2-inch chuck. Drill presses also have larger chucks, 1/2 inch or 5/8 inch, for example. The bit shank size must not exceed the chuck size of the drill. A larger bit may have a reduced shank — a shank with a smaller diameter than the body of the bit — allowing you to use it with smaller chucks.
When deciding which size and type of drill bit you need for the job, take into consideration the size of hole you want and the material you’re drilling into. In most cases, you should drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screw you’re using so the threads of the fastener have something to cut into. For example, you would need a drill bit with a 2 mm diameter for a 2.5 mm screw. For wall anchors, use a drill bit with the same diameter as the anchor.
When pondering metal vs. wood drill bits or any other types, you’ll need to choose a bit that’s designed specifically for the material. For example, drill bits for wood are not intended for drilling into steel.
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Drill bits are tough power tool accessories, but they can wear and become damaged without proper maintenance and care. There are several things you can do to maintain your drill bits and keep them working effectively:
Drill bits are not all created equal and some bits won’t even find their way onto your radar until you’re neck deep in the craft. If you’re new to woodworking, this video might save you some time, money, and frustration as I show you the bits you should buy and the ones you should avoid. Unfortunately, many bits that excel in the construction industry just won’t cut it for fine woodworking and that means you may not find the good stuff at the local hardware store. Let’s dig in!
The standard twist bit is what most people think of when they hear the word “drill bit.” They feature a conical tip that can be tricky to locate accurately. They also have a tendency to cause tearout on the way it and on the way out of the material. Brad point bits are the much better choice for the fine woodworker. The spurs on the end of the bit are able to cut the wood fibers cleanly so the bit often has much less tearout. It’s still a good idea to have a Twist Bit set on hand for general use but when it comes to furniture projects, I’m using brad point bits.
Twist and brad point bits only get so large, so at a certain point you’ll need to turn to a different style bit to make bigger holes. In construction, the spade bit is often used because it’s aggressive and hogs through softwoods like my son on a plate of pizza rolls. But if you use a spade bit on hardwoods you’ll not only have a bunch of tearout and an ugly hole, you also might find the drill jumping and bucking like an angry bull. Thankfully there’s a better way: forstner bits. Forstner bits are capable of making very clean holes with zero tearout and a nice flat bottom. I use them quite often for making counterbores and small recesses for hardware. There’s very little reason for a woodworker to have spade bits in their tool box.
All countersink bits are generally considered part of the furniture-building world but some are better than others. For years I struggled with a basic countersink that certainly worked, but it also left burn marks on the surface and clogged after every hole. A few years ago I came across a much better option in the Amana Countersink Bit. The bit is fully adjustable and features a rotating stop that won’t mar the surface. Furthermore, the design allows the chips to clear instead of clogging.
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